Xiaodan Yu: A Chinese Lingerie Designer who owns her brand in New York

When did you found your brand Emily Yu?
I registered the label in 2011 and launched the first collection in 2013.

As we all know, before starting Emily Yu you were a translator of “Lolita” and had a great career in China. When and why did you move to New York? Why did you move into the lingerie industry? Have you ever studied lingerie design academically?
I came to New York in 1996 with the intention of continuing my study of literature, but unfortunately I missed the deadline to enroll for the following academic year. Then by chance, I heard that FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) was open for spring. Since I had always been interested in fashion design, I wanted to give a try, and luckily got admitted into the design department. During my first semester, the students were often asked to go to stores to do research for design projects, and I always I felt strongly inspired and excited in the lingerie sections. Compared to ready-to-wear, lingerie both requires more precision on structure and is also more detail driven. I definitely found that I had a greater passion for it than any other category of garments. So in my second semester when it came to the point of choosing a specialty, I decided to go with “intimate apparel”, and was lucky enough to get a job offer before graduation.

How many books have you ever published? Are there any books about lingerie? Are you still writing? Why?
I’ve published nine major books including one novel, three literary translations, and four collections of my column writing pieces. Two of them are at least partly lingerie related. The first, titled “Beauty Within: Notebooks of a Lingerie Designer from New York”, is about my experience of studying and working in New York city; and the other is titled “Lingerie Lessons”. I’ve been a columnist writing for Chinese magazines for about ten years and I am still writing.  For me, writing comes as a basic instinct, and gives me a way to face myself and the power of self-healing.

What’s your opinion about the intimate apparel market in China? Compared to the American and European markets, what are our advantages and disadvantages?
The intimate apparel market in China has a lot of room for growth. We could see that people started to acknowledge the importance of undergarment, and at the same time, we also see a lot of young designers on the edge of emerging. This means that we have the demand for the market, and we could probably have a very good supply to fulfill the demand; but there needs to be a bridge, the manufacturer. Theoretically speaking, we shouldn’t have had any problem with this, as we all know China has been a big source of manufacturing for the world in the past 30 years; yet, as a matter of fact, this is where the problem lies. Even though we have thousands of skilled workers, definitely the most in the world in terms of numbers, as a start-up independent designer I always find it hard to have a factory to produce for me, because most of them, especially those with good qualities and experience, are so used to take big orders from US or European big firms that they simply don’t know how to make money working on small quantities.  Minimum is always a killing issue.

 What is the most important thing that you have learnt since founding Emily Yu?
I’ve learnt to compromise. I used to be an idealist, always wanting things to be done perfectly. But since I got into this fashion industry, I learned that there is no 100% perfection, all you can do is get things done as perfectly as possible within a limited time. There is a beginning, middle and end to everything; we need to know how to put an end. Doing so, I believe my personality has changed a little bit. I have become more flexible and tolerant, which actually shows my appreciation for the people around me and for the world.

Are you confident about the future of Emily Yu? What is your ideal life?
I am confident as long as I still work on it. But I am also aware that the world has changed a lot, that there possibly won’t be any giant brands nowadays. 'Do what you are good at and do it the best you can,' is what I always say to myself. I picture my ideal life as living and working in a small place, cosy, comfortable and relaxing. My customers and friends can come whenever they want.

What’s your advice for the design students and young designers?
Hone your skills. Skill will decide how far you can go. It doesn’t mean that a designer should be a pattern maker, but at least you know how to transfer your ideas into real garments instead of some beautiful fashion illustrations.

How do you feel about Intima Asia?
It has been a good reference for me to learn about this industry. I would like to work with you further.