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Intima Asia

Exhibition

Guo Pei: Chinese Art And Couture

04 November 2019

Singapore, 12 june 2019 – in a collaboration with world famous couturière Guo Pei, the Asian Civilisations Museum in Singapore presented, for the first time from 15 june to 15 September 2019, art through couture in a juxtaposition of masterpieces created centuries apart.

The exquisite showcase examined the relevance and impact of Chinese art, and how Chinese aesthetics and traditions are being reimagined for the world today.

Guo Pei: Chinese Art and Couture opened the museum’s Season of Chinese Art, which explored the best of the genre and presented it for a contemporary, international audience. With 20 Chinese art masterpieces from the Museum’s collection and 29 dresses by Guo Pei, this blockbuster exhibition spanned two galleries and is part of the Museum’s commitment to examining the Asia’s diverse cultural heritage, interconnections within Asia, and connections between Asia and the rest of the world. Mr Kennie Ting, Director of the Asian Civilisations Museum and Peranakan Museum, explained “Guo Pei: Chinese Art and Couture is significant to our visitors for two reasons. Firstly, it is our first special exhibition dedicated to fashion and thus is representative of our shift to the contemporary domain. Our aim is to make a point as to how heritage and tradition are still very much relevant to the contemporary; that heritage and tradition can be remarkably sexy and alluring. Every masterpiece in the exhibition is a unique blend of contemporary and traditional design, material and craft. Secondly, the exhibition has been designed to give visitors a simple and visually arresting overview of Chinese art history: imperial art, export art, and folk art. We wanted a show that would introduce visitors to aspects of Chinese art – materials like silk and porcelain, the craft of embroidery, motifs such as peonies and phoenixes – in a completely unexpected and, hopefully, very memorable fashion.”

Guo Pei’s works are displayed on Bonaveri mannequins. The exhibition began with a dramatic display of 黄皇后(Yellow Queen), the iconic cape worn by Rihanna to the 2015 Met Gala. A symbol of Guo Pei’s breakthrough to an international market, the dress also represents a moment in time when the world encountered and engaged – through countless reactions, conversations, and memes –with a masterwork inspired by the imperial China. The main exhibition space featured three sections. In ‘Gold is the Colour of my Soul’, Guo Pei’s signature yellow and gold works reflected the historical significance of colour, techniques, and materials strongly associated with imperial China. In ‘Treasured Heirlooms: Chinese Bridal Dress’, Guo Pei’s works were shown to continue and modernise traditional Chinese bridal style, with strong Peranakan connections; and they have found relevance with celebrity brides today, including Angelababy, Liu Shi Shi, and Tang Yan.
Every sightline in the exhibition space emphasised a visual dialogue between the historical and the contemporary through deliberate juxtapositions of Chinese art masterpieces and Guo Pei’s masterworks. Each pairing showed off the best of Chinese traditional craftsmanship as well as modern couture techniques in the expression of creativity and storytelling. Just as how in the past Chinese export art garnered demand around the world, its reinvention and modern interpretations continue to fascinate the world today and provoke visitors to consider how the past continues to inspire the future. One dialogue could be found in the ‘Gold is the Colour of My Soul’ section of the exhibition, through a pairing that explores prevalent Buddhist symbols in Chinese art, which Guo Pei has delicately incorporated into her 大金(Magnificent Gold). The dress has been hailed by the China National Silk Museum as “the birth of haute couture in China” for its technical mastery and incorporates elaborate embroideries, similar to the kind used to produce thangkas (paintings or embroideries on scrolls) depicting Buddhist deities and scenes. Guo Pei’s team of artisans study the embroidery on historical thangkas like this to refine their techniques.

In another dialogue, in the section ‘China and the World’, we saw classic Chinese patterns of flowers, crests, and clouds, not just on precious blue-and-white porcelain, but also incorporated, using the same method of brush painting blue pigment, onto Guo Pei’s sculptural masterpiece 青花瓷(Blue-and-White Porcelain).
The continuation of Chinese artistic traditions and culture by the Chinese diaspora was evident in the many cross-cultural masterpieces in this exhibition. Guo Pei’s bridal collection, which has been embraced by Chinese celebrities and other wealthy clients, was inspired by historical bridal ensembles made in China but imported to Southeast Asia to be worn by Peranakan Chinese brides. One of her creations, shown in the ‘Treasured Heirlooms’ section, was the genesis for this collaboration between ACM and Guo Pei. The couturière saw a bridal ensemble in the Peranakan Museum’s travelling exhibition on Peranakan Chinese art in Paris back in 2010. Her interpretation of that Peranakan bridal ensemble, worn by Angelababy for her wedding, was seen by exhibition curator Jackie Yoong. She made the connection to the Peranakan Museum’s historical bridal ensemble and then began to conceptualise this exhibition.
“In this exhibition, fashion and history come full circle. We see how the past inspires the present, we see how traditions are revived and rejuvenated, and we see how export objects and foreign ideas influence the local. I encourage visitors to take a close look at the incredible detail in Guo Pei’s fantastical works – to fully experience the devotion and dedication behind the thousands of hours of stitches required to make them”, said Ms Jackie Yoong.

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